D and G Bloc

Not much has happened in a while

2007-02-15T16:00:00.000Z

I've spent pretty much the last 4 months just standing in the rain and looking at boulder problems - never bothering to put my shoes on but just working out sequences in my head and convincing myself that I am strong enough to do these moves.

Who knows maybe I will be soon, I've certainly spent enough time hanging from my god damn finger board - under the constant watch of my over active imagination, dreaming of latching the undercut on the G sit down project or some how mystically cruising along the prow of My Evil Twin.

One day eh?

Any way, was just looking through some old pics and thought I'd post some on here.

Fat man project @ Larbrax

Unamed 6b roof @ Sandyhills

Hardest slab project in Scotland?.... font 8a\8a+\8b....

Happy Days on Screel

Somewhere on the Fife Coast

2006-10-02T08:32:00.000Z

Well its not D&G but I don't live there now so I'll just post anything. Went to Ravenscraig at the weekend but cant follow simple intructions so I ended up on a shingle beach with no rock in sight, walked further up the coast and found these two boulder

Climbed the two aretes as warmups at about V0 and then started work on the better looking lines, tried a dyno but got side tracked with another couple of lines so I never completed this. The first line is identical to Paul Savages classic The Bad Seed at the Thirlstane but on bigger holds and the second a two move wonder on a grossly blunt arete from sitting using two small finger holes pull on and then slap for the top where there is not a hold in sight.

The Addict V?

Back on Screel

2006-09-16T14:05:00.000Z

Tried my old problem Happy Days again today font6a+ but it felt much harder than that after a lay off - got it third go but it was tough - man I'm weak!!!

Tried this project but its way too hard, was far too hard even when I was climbing well and my soft fingers just couldn't get to grips with the crimps today - one to work through out the winter.

Grade Obsessed!

2006-06-24T14:50:00.000Z

The plan today was to have a go on my small trad project at Clifton or at least solo up some of it to see if there are any good gear placements (I'm thinking not) but some rain last night and the presence of a pretty big ugly bull in the field made me head for the Thirlstane clutching a list of problems that Tim Rankin gave me a while back.

Tim has climbed a number of new problems at the Thirlstane over the years but they have never been made public (at least I'd never heard of them). I was sceptical about what sort of problems would be left to do at the Thirlstane as Paul Savage seems to have taken all the good lines and created monsterously hard problems out of them but Tim has created some equally good problems and probably the hardest and most direct font 7a at the Thirlstane Grade Obsessed. This starts on a pretty good hold in the first break and then go's straight up to a poor slopey crimp and then a big move up to good holds in the 3rd break - I didn't manage this today but was getting very close.

Made a number of repeats of The Bad Seed font 6c today and its feeling much easier now, also made a few repeats of Jihad font 7a.

Not sure if I was climbing a new line between Insect Kin and Endrina today or if I was trying Endrina but its a good line through the roof on undercuts and body tension with a dyno to a good edge on the head wall, very technical with a bit of brute force thrown in, might also be about font 7a.

I'll add a list of all the problems Tim has climbed soon and I'll update my topo and get it on the Scottish Climbs Wiki when I have the time.

Clifton

2006-05-30T10:24:00.000Z

Spent Sunday evening at Clifton, catching the sun until about 9:15pm. I worked on The Wall for about 30 minutes - thats not strictly true, I stood below The Wall for about 30 minutes thinking how the *&£% do you get on this! Looks a truly awesome problem and is about font7a+/7b I think.

I then started work on the complete version of Half Knife font 7b not the short version I climbed last year thinking I'd managed Half Knife, I am now only about 1 or 2 sessions away from completing this and my hardest repeat to date, its just a case of linking the start and having enough grunt left to finish it off on slopers. (pic below)

I then tried to get some pics of me on Zillion Dollar Sadist font 8b but there is absolutely nowhere on the traverse that I could pull on, this is desperate! Paul savage once mentioned to me that he had a harder project than ZDS at Clifton and I've looked for it on numerous occasions and on Sunday night I think I found it - a desperate roof on side-pulls to a crappy heuco and then a rounded headwall -- could this be font 8b+? I'll get pics next time I'm down.

Finishing up I found my next project, not sure whether it should be a boulder problem or a trad line, a fall from this slab would see you 40 foot down a very steep hill, climbing looks pretty sound at about font 6a (I think)(pic below - the small bush in the bottom left is actually the top of tree!)

Of to Greece for 2 weeks now but as soon as I'm back I'll be back at Clifton to get these

Apache @ Sandyhills

2006-05-26T13:13:00.000Z

This is a small roof and arete that I climbed at Sandyhills, excellent climbing with a brilliant tough crux, its about font 6a+ - the project roof beside it is maybe font 6b+ and will fall soon.

What awaits you at Larbrax...

2006-03-24T15:22:00.000Z

This is the second ascent of Waning Crescent V3 put up by John Watson moments before, Larbrax is just waiting for the rush. (pic taken by John Watson)

This is the awesome dyno project at Larbarx that I worked with John Watson just after Christmas, thought to be about font 7a and a crag classic. Just a one move wonder pulling onto the overhanging rock in a brutal crucifix position on nothing foot holds and and poor sidepull crimps, then just go for the poor slopey hold at the top, both myself and John were getting to touch the hold but just forgetting to hold it. (pic taken by John Watson)

COMING SOON!

2006-03-24T12:33:00.000Z

Okay, thought I'd start this back up again as I've been spending a bit of time in D&G and I've completed a few projects and been working on some other established problems over christmas.

First up this weekend is a trip to Clifton to get some quality shots of me flailing about on Scotlands 1st and only unrepeated font 8b Zillion Dollar Sadist - heres hoping the weathers dry and I can some how find the strength to pull onto this after a 2 month lay off with a No. 5 pulley tear. Obviously I can't climb this hard, but I'm hoping some good pics of the problems with climbers on them might inspire more people to come and give them a go.

Also coming -

Pics of new problems in the font 6a - 7a range at Sandyhills, Screel and Port O'Warren.

A wild bouldering trip in the Galloway hills.

A top secret boulder the size of any of the Dumby boulders thats never been climbed on!

The DUNGEON!!!!!!

Pastures New

2005-10-12T14:57:00.000Z

Thats pretty much it for this blog at the moment. Moving to Edinburgh on Saturday and will be focusing my bouldering in Northumberland & Dumbarton and hopefully sport climbing in Scotland.

Still have 2 or 3 awsome projects(I think so anyway) on Screel and a fair few undeveloped or undocumented areas (Criffel being one of them, I have a topo in my head but never managed to get it onto paper or get any photos to really make it worthwhile).

If anyone wants any info on D&G Bouldering then get in touch and I'll sort you out.

If I had time (maybe during the winter) I'd develop The Dungeon (soon to be Scotlands Crag X)(If it wasn't for the 2 day walk in !!!!)

Cheers

Half of Half Knife

2005-09-26T14:22:00.000Z

Turns out I've not repeated Paul Savages Half Knife font 7b at Clifton, again I've started a problem to close the finish line.

Did the same on The Bad Seed at the Thirlstane a while ago but I got that eventually so this one will fall as well.

Oh Well! Back to the drawing board!

2005-09-08T15:21:00.000Z

HighTide footless pull-on @ SandyHills Bay

2005-09-08T15:20:00.000Z

HighTide @ SandyHills Bay font 6a

2005-09-08T15:19:00.000Z

SouthSide @ SandyHills Bay font 6b+

2005-09-08T15:18:00.000Z

SouthSide @ SandyHills Bay font 6b+

15 Hardest Problems in D&G

2005-09-05T09:24:00.000Z

Updated thanks to Tim Rankin 22/03/06

1. Zillion Dollar Sadist - V13 - Paul Savage - Clifton - unrepeated
2. Chinese Democracy - V11 - Paul Savage - Thirlstane - unrepeated
3. My Evil Twin - V11 - Paul Savage - SandyHills - Dave Macleod
4. SS Shrinking Violet - V11 - Paul Savage - Thirlstane - Tim Carruthers, Tim Rankin
5. Knife Party - V10 - Paul Savage - Clifton - unrepeated
6. Tied up and Swallowed - V9 - Paul Savage - Thirlstane - Tim Carruthers
7. Curmudgeon - V9 - Dave Macleod - Garheugh Point - ?
8. FATWA - V9 - Mark Katz - Thirlstane - ?
9. Hardcore Superstar - V8+ - Paul Savage - Thirlstane - ?
10. Shrinking Violet - V8+ - Paul Savage - Thirlstane - ?
11. Trauma - V8+ - Paul Savage - Clifton - ?
12. Divine Intervention - V8+ - David Graham- Clifton - Paul Savage
13. Altered States - V8 - Michael Tweedly - Garheugh Point - ?
14. Half Knife - V8 - Paul Savage - Clifton - ?
15. Concrete Wave - V8 - Paul Savage - Criffel - ?

This is just from the top of my head and is open to change, anyone repeated any of these lines or even better anyone put up a harder line that I don't know of?

Leave a comment and I'll update it.

Not much happening

2005-09-02T13:29:00.000Z

Not got much time for bouldering at the moment, too busy moving house and trying to find a new job in Edinburgh. Think I've managed to get the flat situation sorted out with a flat within 5 mins walk of both Alien Rock 1 & 2, so should get some quality training in and some harder sends hopefully.

Took a trip to Kyloe in the other week and failed on Monty Python, Jocks and Geordies and something else that I can't remember the name of.

Also failed on the onsight (due to a wet finishing hold) on Playing Rudies which is a quality problem although probably soft at font 7a. Came close to getting Nadser as well but slipped twice from the top again due to seepage and the fact that it was raining slightly. Climbing is so much easier with good shoes, purchased a pair of Scarpa Veloce Velcro in the morning and they were much better than my 5.10 X-rays I'd been using for the past year. Nadser is funny though, I think probably only font 7a/7a+ but I've seen it getting anything upto font 7c on peoples score cards on 8a.nu and different web sites. Anyway Northumberland looks quality and I can't wait to get in some winter trips this year, anyone up for that? Give me a shout when I eventually move to Edinburgh. I also went to Kyloe Out to look at Learning to Fly font 7c/7c+ and my initial thought is FUCK ME!!!! How can anyone jump that far????

I've also got Jihad font 7a totally wired and I'm pretty close to getting Crack House font 7b sussed just need to get better at heel hooking, though the new shoes might help.

I've also repeated Paul Savages problem Half Knife font 7b at Clifton, this is the arete to Paul Savages super problem and as yet unrepeated Knife Party font 7c+, which originally was given font 8a but then downgraded after cleaning, but I have to say that it looks way harder than Chinese Democracy and the sit start to Shrinking Violet which both get font 8a at the Thirlstane.

Its been a long time

2005-07-08T11:48:00.000Z

Its been a while since I've posted anything and to be honest its been nearly 3 weeks since I've climbed, seem to have lost the desire to get out and get things done.

There were a few trips before I stopped posting, so here's a run down of what went down.

After watching Pete Murrays 'Klem Loskot DVD' I got totally phsyced and took a late evening trip to the Thirlstane and made light work of Insect Kin V6 as the midges were making light work of me. Then managed to send my long term goal of Jihad V6 which I have to be honest is the best problem I have climbed, super sustained monkeying along the shelf to a powerful shoulder lock then some tricky foot placements to dyno for the break and then an easy traverse off QUALITY! Next on the list was The Bad Seed V5 this took a bit longer and I've been trying it for the same amount of time as Jihad on and off over the course of that last year. I did manage to send the problem twice and I think the moves on it are much harder than Jihad (unless I'm using a wack sequence) and I would have thought V7 but its a classic and V5 is everyone else's opinion so V5 it is (but its fucking hard!). Next I started trying an ambitious project on The Bad Seed, its just one move really missing out the slaps to the slots around the edge of the roof, a big swinging dyno from under the roof around the lip to catch the break (an absolutely nuts move) must be about V8 but at the moment I'm a couple of inches short of catching the break but I'll get it done. Left the Thirlstane that night chuffed to bits and covered in the finest D&G midge bites.

Next was a trip to Garheugh Point (working in Stranraer but managed a lunch break) the goal of this was to complete Afterlife V6, but as soon as I got there and looked at the blank slab I knew I wasn't going to climb it that day so didn't even bother getting on it. Instead I headed for Snow White V5 and Bowfiner V5, tried for the dyno on Snow White for a while but was loosing to much skin and I couldn't stop my feet from hitting my mat. Bowfinger was next and I was catching the sidepull but not really having the will to stay on the problem - fingers were falling apart so I just quit it and took a nice drive down the coast.

Edinburgh was next and a trip to Salisbury Crags. This was to check out the area for when I up sticks and move to Edinburgh, I was actually quite please with the crag and climed loads of eliminates to about V4, climbing the right hand side of the jamming crack with a wee slap to the top being the highlight. Tried The Black Wall Traverse V5 for a bit but failed at the 4th or 5th move coming down onto the sidepull (think I was trying to use a tall persons sequence and not being tall I didn't get anywhere) and it got really greasy quickly so sacked it to the pub for the rest of the day and got a quality suntan.

Thirlstane

2005-06-09T14:09:00.000Z

After being slightly disappointed by my afternoon at Carrock Fell I decided to hit the Thirlstane in the evening.

Again there were more signs of people bouldering in the cave with The Niche and Corner problem seeing a lot of action.

I went about my normal warm up and then went straight to The Bad Seed V5, this time catching the slot every time and having the strength and control to keep my feet on the roof and adjust my grip. This time I was also able to dyno for the next hold but everytime I tagged it I forgot to hang on!

Being very please with my strength on The Bad Seed I decided to start trying the Jihad V6 dyno, after some careful foot placement I dynoed and missed, then dynoed and slapped the hold, then dynoed and caught the hold but started to twist so I dropped off. After a bit more chalk and a rest I pulled onto the midway holds and dynoed, the slap echoed in the cave as my hand caught the rock and stayed in place, completing the route out left. Now all I need to do is link the monkeying along the shelf with the dyno and I'll be a very happy man.

Carrock Fell

2005-06-09T14:00:00.000Z

Went to Carrock Fell yesterday, not sure what I was expecting but Carrock Fell has had a huge build up and I personally think it doesn't live up to it. Some of the harder lines do look great, but the majority are not the sort of problems I would travel for 1hour and a half to get too.

No offence is meant to anyone by this. Lakesbloc have produced an excellent guide to the area.

Problems I climbed were Terrace Wall V3, Captain Kirk V3, Bucky O'Hare V1, Pack up your troubles V3 and Music Box V2. All problems were onsighted, except Terrace Wall which I got 2nd attempt after jumping off from the top to test my mat.

As for the mat, I think it performed well, a few scratches on it from the Gabbro but only to be expected. As for landing on it I didn't really use it but the jump from the top of the Terrace Wall is probably about 3 metres and it was painless. There was another boulderer there with a dropzone and although it is far easier to carry than the Alpkit it doesn't give you as much confidence as the Alpkit.

The Alpkit mat rocks, but it could do with some shoulder straps, its not easy carrying a brief case you can sit four people on over the scree.

2005-06-08T08:08:00.000Z

Alpkit Phud

2005-06-08T08:04:00.000Z

Just received my new mat yesterday and it looks pretty good. Heading to Carrock Fell in about an hour so I'll write a small review of it when I get back.

A new beginning

2005-06-01T09:41:00.000Z

After 5 weeks off, with no climbing and no training just endless hours of gathering my thoughts I felt it was time to start again. So I went back to the place I first tried to climb over a year ago, the Thirlstane. I had half expected the same outcome as my first visit there, with me walking about just pretending to climb the problems and in the end up not even managing to get off of the ground on anything.

When I arrived the sun was blazing and the cave had become a little shadow filled hole with only the landward side illuminated by the sun, so I started to warm up just traversing the walls and climbing half way up the trad routes then down climbing them. This went on for about 30 minutes and I actually came up with a nice circuit of and high traverse across the left outer wall and then reversing the route but lower down back to the start of the cave and in to problem 1 in the cave. My attention now turned to the short sit down arete on the right of the cave. This is one of my favourite problems as it nearly always ends up in a barndoor when latching the slopers on top. But to my surprise I had the strength/technique to keep a foot on the wall at all times and I just cruised to the top 4 times in a row.

I moved inside the cave and set about Bad Sneakers V3 which last year had taken me 2 months to climb but this time it was sent 1st go and then quickly repeated, feeling really good and really surprised that I wasn't flailing about like and idiot I turned my attention to Lateral Thinking V4 and quickly sent this and then sent it again with a slightly extended start following the crack line as for the start of Insect Kin V6 and then up Lateral Thinking V4, which I think will be excellent practice for Insect Kin as the problems are almost identical.

My attention now turned to The Bad Seed V5 a problem that I thought I had climbed but found out later that I'd missed out the start and although in the past I could cruise the final moves I couldn't even hang the starting holds. I spent the first few attempts just hanging inverted from the starting holds, not because it felt good but just because I was amazed that I could. After this I decided to try slapping for the groove and also managed to hold this on a number of occasions, from here it would just be a case of finishing the problem, something that I'd done countless times but I just couldn't manage it today. Thinking back I know why, a simple foot change would have enabled me to get up but I think I was just rushing it as I was so amazed that I was maybe going to tick off this 3 star classic. - Next Time!

Bouldering at the Thirlstane yesterday I don't think I have ever felt as relaxed and strong. When I had decided to start bouldering again, there were loads of thoughts rushing through my mind and almost changing it, but as soon as I was on the rock these thoughts were a help to me, bouldering is something I am always going to do, even more so now than in the past - I have huge ideas and an unstopable desire to fulfill them now.

I was also really please to see that when I arrived there was already chalk on some of the holds and as I was leaving a group of 4 climbers arrived, 3 trad climbers and 1 boulderer. A boulderer who told me he'd been on Criffel and out to Garheugh Point bouldering, so maybe Dumfries and Galloway is getting noticed as a bouldering location, he mentioned the Stone Country book so I'm taking it that thats where he found his inspiration - Well done John.

Working the problems at Clifton

2005-05-11T09:43:00.000Z

A couple of weeks ago I was at Clifton one evening to try the dyno under ZDS (name to follow) and to start working the start of Knife Party V8. Once there I warmed up on the Tall Slab V0 and Study Break V4. Feeling pretty good I started throwing for the dyno and was getting pretty close, the hardest move is actually pulling on from the sit start as its very overhanging and the hand holds are very polished and slopey. When you miss the dyno the landing is not very forgiving so I quit this and started climbing it from standing under the dyno, finishing both direct and traversing left along the lip. This problem will be dispatched quickly once I get back on the rock and will be the hardest and possibly the best problem I will have climbed.

Below the dyno there is a small cave with an nice traverse from right to left from a sitting start. The Dwarf Cave Traverse is probably about V4 climbed on small crimps and slopers, but would be easier if the top lip was used. I didn't actually use any heel hooks when climbing it either, this may make it easier again but there is a nice rail under the lip that really works your core and I felt this was a better option in terms of good climbing.

From here I decided I was feeling strong enough to try Half Knife V8, this is the arete of Knife Party V10 from a sitting start, pull on using the slopey arete and heel hook with the right foot, the left foot can go on a tiny edge under the arete. From here a powerful slap is needed with the right to a poor sloper on the slab and then another powerful slap to a good sloper with the left further up the arete (I could make neither, but was very close with the right). It may be possible to get a good foot on the arete once the right sloper is held but only time will tell. Definitely one that I'm going to beat into submission during the summer, then who knows maybe the second ascent of Knife Party (got to have goals eh!).

I spotted a nice looking nose above the gate boulder in the field with the bulls, so took a walk up to look at it and started working a new problem 6 inches V3, this is really only the last move of a longer problem but is a good start. Start crouching under the nose with left hand on a small edge and right hand on a poor sloper with a tiny shallow mono on it, get a foot on and hang, from here a powerful move which always results in a barn door to a good edge about 6 inches up with the left hand and its easy to the top. The complete problem will start sitting at the base of the boulder and climb out under the nose to finish up 6 inches, will start working this soon.

2005-05-11T09:40:00.000Z

Dwarf Cave Traverse V4 Clifton

2005-05-11T08:47:00.000Z

Twin Flake V0 Sandyhills

Sandyhills new problems and repeats

2005-04-12T09:42:00.000Z

Spent Sunday evening bouldering at Sandyhills, with the main goal being to repeat my SDS to Flizz Off V6, to repeat Flizz V3 and to try and climb the arete of My Evil Twin.

After and initial warm up I set about repeating Flizz which didn't take too long and I think I got some good photos as well. The problem is a sit start on the black bulge just as you enter the bay of My Evil Twin, starting on two flat holds and dyno to the next sharp jug then up again to another big jug, from here a long static move to the top break, a 3 star problem I think.

From here I went left around the arete and climbed a new line up the overhanging wall Toothy Ruthy V1 starting by the tooth shaped hold and climbing the face with out use of the arete. I also climbed another new line on the orange wall of the bay following the 2 flakes Twin Flake V0.

On my second attempt on SDS Flizz Off I broke the good starting hold off, I then managed to climb the SDS section and get onto the bottom of the original problem but failed to top it out. I think breaking the hold off has actually made the start better but not changed the grade, which I now think is definitely V6 Font 7a.

I tried the arete of My Evil Twin for only a short time as my fingers had dried out and were starting to crack, but its very hard and would be an excellent eliminate line.

Loads of pictures were taken so I'll get some on here.

Back to Garheugh

2005-04-04T14:26:00.000Z

I was back at Garheugh Point on Saturday to meet Pete Murray and do a bit of filming.

I was there early as I had a couple of project lines that I wanted to try and I also wanted to do a bit of exploring along the beach. After a couple of hours climbing easy lines, failing on the projects and getting Robotica V3 totally dialed I stopped for a rest and a little 'sunworshipping'.

Projects I tried were a short eliminate line between Darkness Falling and the unnamed V1, starting on sidepull and slapping up to the good sloper then getting past the bulge and going for the top sloper, without any use of the crack, probably V2 but harsh on the skin. I also tried a line up the arete of the screamer slab from sitting, same start as Robotica V3 but no going round onto the slab, just a direct fight over the bulge to be presented with another, desperate climbing using heel hooks, slaps and lots of compression, small crimp just above the first bulge may help, maybe V5.

When Pete arrived I was filmed completing Robotica V3, A sense of Danger V1 and Pirates V2. Was also filmed taking a number of high falls from Afterlife V6 and failing on Pete's new problem Silver Hammer Head-Knock V4, which I just missed out on getting the 1st ascent, by falling at the top out move having passed the crux lock off on a very bad and sharp crimp. After Pete had sent it from standing I egged him on into doing a sitter only to result in a nasty looking flapper, but due respect as he just taped the top of his finger back on and sent it from sitting, by this point I'd been climbing for about 5 hours and had no crimp strength left to get the 2nd repeat but I'll be back for it. We also tried a harder line beside the arete using crimpy side pulls but nothing came of it, will definitely go at about V4/V5.

The barrel roof project on the road side was another project I was at Garheugh to look at but it is very overgrown with ivy, not sure if people would complain if I started gardening on it. Also looked at the Prow Project which is amazing, will go, but will be a ridiculous grade, already started thinking about taking a big brush and stepladder to clean it and see if it gets any attention, I'm also thinking about starting to work the lower moves as this would be one sweet 1st ascent. Open to anyone though, I'll gladly spot you.

2005-03-17T12:39:00.000Z

The boulder field at Clifton

2005-03-17T12:37:00.000Z

Zillion Dollar Sadist V12/V13

Clifton in the Rain

2005-03-17T12:15:00.000Z

Woke up this morning totally up for my trip to Clifton and a shot on Half Knife V8, only to find it was pouring down.

Not to be put off and because I had the time off work anyway, I decided to go and take another look at the boulders, and see if I could see any other obvious lines. I don't think anyone has been bouldering at Clifton since I was last there in the late summer, all of the bloc's were thick with green stuff (non-scientific term) and all of the landings that aren't over rocks were overgrown.

I climbed over the boulders and had a look at Zillion Dollar Sadist V12/V13 which is an impressive looking line, actually to me it looked impossible! Its a 5 metre traverse of a roof edge on nothing holds at about 65 degrees followed by a 2 metre arete which has plenty of holds. I would think that not many people have looked at the boulder never mind climbed on it so I took a photo.

I also took a photo of the main boulder field and will mark on the main boulders and routes (well the ones that I know) as well. There is a very interesting boulder which is an obvious problem, looks similar to Dreamtime only smaller and not as hard. Its a SDS start on the right side of the overhanging face on sloppy edges and a short traverse into the middle of the boulder where the holds run out, from here a long reach or short jump allows you to catch a good hold on the lip and then a traverse of the lip or rock over to the top. Very cool looking problem and probably very photogenic (if a problem can be).

Criffel's Hobo

2005-03-14T13:19:00.000Z

Had a great day at Criffel on Saturday working a huge bulging arete project at the Viewpoint boulders courtesy of John Watson, made slight head way on it but this could take some time, although when complete should be a major test piece on Criffel.

On the same bloc but around the arete I climbed a new line - Hobo V4

Hobo V4 - SDS under the roof with feet on the ledge at the back of the roof (almost lying down) from here pull on and rock over the edge to try and find a hold that will get you up the slab. Never more than 2 metres off of the ground but hard desperate climbing still.

I also made a repeat of Magic Eye V1 on the Viewpoint boulder, further south from here I found the bloc containing Paul's Arete V6 which I climbed from a standing start but I think the original is a SDS, also tried a good line beside this on a huge side pull rail, but I didn't complete this.

Inspiration

2005-03-10T09:08:00.000Z

Just over a year ago now, I was trawling the net looking for inspiration, bored with my current past times I needed something new. It was always going to be either climbing, kayaking or adventure racing. Then I stumbled onto the Scotland Online website and read the 10 hardest bouldering problems in Scotland, written by Dave Macleod.

This single article made me discard any notion of kayaking or adventure racing and had me totally hooked on bouldering. I was amazed to see that 3 of the 5 hardest problems in Scotland were no more than 20 miles from my front door, I just had to check them out.

This is my inspiration, the fact that two of these still haven't had a second repeat and there is a possible V12/V13 which hasn't been well documented. This is the work of Paul Savage, unfortunately retired from the bouldering scene now, but leaves in his wake a string of improbable test pieces.

Why have these lines remained unrepeated?

Over the past year I have never seen another person bouldering in Dumfries and Galloway, why is it so unpopular?

Garheugh Point

2005-03-07T17:57:00.000Z

Had an early start on Sunday down at Garheugh. After my dismal performance at the Thirlstane on Friday where I didn't manage to climb anything, I was keen to get back on track.

Arrived just before 9am to a calm sea, clear sky's and very inviting boulders, was definitely feeling good.

I warmed up on the point 1 slab with quick accents of Tied and Bound V0, Rib Tickler V0 and Missing Rib V0/V1. From here I went onto the manky boulder and did Dado font 3 and Sea Slater V0. I was feeling very confident with my slab climbing so I moved onto the approach slab and prepared for AfterLife V5/V6, this is an almost blank slab which I have tried on a number of occasions, after a number of failed attempts I managed to get on and get to the good hold, but a little higher I took a big fall, completely missing my mat and landing in the gorse (this one will have to wait for another time). Not to be put off I climbed A Sense of Danger V0 to the left of AfterLife, from the top of this route I could get a good look at the final moves on AfterLife and was disappointed to see that there are no holds surprise, surprise. I then climbed the highball Princess VS 4a (font 4a).

Moving onto the sheep pen boulder I again tried Snowwhite V5, with no luck, so I tried Stretch Armstrong V7 and managed all of the moves but just couldn't control the swing on the undercut coming onto the arete (next time).

Moved round to the split boulder and looked for the starting holds on Bowfinger V5 but decided not to try this one yet, moved right onto Pirates V2 and climbed this.
I then moved round onto the states boulder and started working Slap and Go V5 which was dispatched 20 minutes later, I was making another accent of this as the 1st was very untidy and whilst holding the razor edge I slipped and fell from the top, half onto the mat and half onto the rocks, not a pleasant feeling (must teach my dog to spot instead of sitting on the mat when I'm above it).

2005-03-07T11:56:00.000Z

Damage from the brutal edge on Slap and Go

1st Review of Stone Country

2005-03-03T17:06:00.000Z

Obviously Stone Country must be excellent as Amazon can't seem to put it down and have kept a hold of mine for another read! Come on Amazon get it sent out!

Criffel Boulders

2005-02-28T18:04:00.000Z

I headed out to the Criffel boulders on Sunday, for those that have never been to the Criffel boulder field, its like a scaled down version of Castle Hill (NZ) and because of this there is no easy way of describing the locations of the following problems.

I wandered about for a while looking for some descent sized blocks and then found a good rising traverse, maybe V1 (but with the possibility of a harder sit start). Beside this I climbed a very nice rock over/mantle onto a slab from a sit start, again probably V1. Here I also found a hanging arete which looks hard and a stepped overhanging wall which looks even harder.

A 5 minute walk from here going further up the hill uncovered a gem of a problem, which I worked for maybe an hour and made no head way on, probably V5ish, but I just couldn't figure out a good sequence. Start on undercuts and reach round the roof with the aim to traverse the over hanging lip left until you can rock over using a tiny pebble onto the blank slabby top.

Walking back to the car I was surprised I still had a full complement of skin, so when I got to Concrete Wave I couldn't resist having a go, knowing I couldn't do the original version I climbed a variation using a higher hold on top the wave, between the toe hook/slopper and the good pockets, this allowed me to heel hook the slopper and continue on the original route, giving a good alternative for the boulderer that lacks the super human strength and ability to complete the original. Concrete Wave Variation V6.

The Criffel boulders will in time reveal well over a hundred problems, mostly in the V0-V3 but with some harder problems, including the classic venue test piece of Concrete Wave V8, can't wait to get back and nail it.

BluePrint Project

2005-02-17T22:25:00.000Z

The first pic is the start on two crimps and one foot in the crack, could maybe do with having my foot higher but the walls pretty steep (maybe 20 degrees overhanging).

The dyno's a pain because your going up, left and outwards at the same time, so catching the eye is a bit wild.

In some respects its a bit like the way the joker is climbed, with the left hand taking the sting out of the dyno and the right doing the catching (my hand stayed there for about a second before I hit the deck). I never even got close again...

Once the swing is controlled and you get both hands on, there are good foot holds higher up the wall, to enable you to top out.

Those were the days!

2005-02-17T20:03:00.000Z

I couldn't leave for Arico with out having another go at 1833 so I got a late start at work this morning and went back to Port O'Warren.

Amazing chill with a blazing sun (don't figure) and 5 minutes later I'd bagged what I think is the second ascent of the 1833 traverse, I would say V3 for the grade, quite pumped at the end of it.

Now my attention turned to my projects, this time with a sensible head on and I realized just how hard they are.

BluePrint of Time - Standing start, pull on using two crimps and just go for the eye, if you catch this then rock into and then over the eye. Probably V7 (will post pictures later today).

BluePrint of Time SDS - This is one for the Si O'Conor's and Dave Macleod's of the world, couldn't say what the grade is but I'd be surprised if it was less than V10 (cue the ridicule when it goes at V6 :) ).

Stone Country

2005-02-16T23:04:00.000Z

Got mine ordered, can't wait, get yours too at

http://www.stonecountry.co.uk

Full review will be on here once I've had a good look at it.

Crusade

2005-02-15T18:50:00.000Z

This is my project along from the Thirlstane.

Crusade - This is a traverse of the blank wall across from Rodeo Rider going up hill. Start from the crack on the curved crimps, from here make a huge reach to the good edge. Once this is obtained try and control the swing and get a foot on somewhere, from here pop for the good sidepull and top out, projected grade of V4.

SDS is also possible climbing the crack until the crimps are reached, not sure if it would change the grade.

Sunday 13th February

2005-02-15T18:44:00.000Z

Spent this afternoon trying to make the second ascent of '1833 traverse' at Port O'Warren, this is a rising traverse of a sandstone wave graded at V2/V3. So far I have it in two sections and should link it next time.

Also started work on 2 projects on this wave

Years gone by - is a lower traverse from a SDS along a small vein in the rock until you can reach the pockets of the 1833 traverse and then finsh along this, projected grade of V5/V6

Blueprint of time - SDS at the end of the traverse under the overhang, pull on somehow and dyno for the big eye, hold this and rock over, projected grade of V7 (out of my league just now)

-any grades on here may be wrong + they are just projected grades-

2005-02-15T11:33:00.000Z

1833 Traverse + Projects

D&G Bloc

2005-02-15T10:28:00.001Z

Just thought I'd start a blog documenting all of the bouldering in Dumfries & Galloway and any trips I take to other bouldering venues.